2012/11/21

都會風華:新北市心體驗之嗅出古早味


新北市是座不折不扣的移民城市。

很多人說:台北不是我的家,因為這裡是個移民社會,從中南部上來打拼的千百張臉孔,構成了這裡的面貌。但為什麼住了這麼久卻沒有家的感覺呢?

我想是缺乏共同的記憶吧?當都市以效率取代人情連結,以建設取代傳統氛圍,原本出現在我們身邊的點點滴滴,都因時代的巨輪而消失,於是大家只能從舊照片或記憶的殘垣斷壁中拼湊出過往。

因此新北市文化局辦理了「都會風華:新北市心體驗」的城市小旅行,在十條路線的規劃中,看不到著名的大景點,但行程的安排提醒著我們要隨時注意在身邊,卻不太關心的美好。

以我擔任達人角色「嗅出古早味」的行程為例,一天當中就在板橋、土城與新莊三區遊走,造訪了蒸汽火車頭展示、林家花園、陳列古物的牛軋糖博物館、文昌祠等點。蒸汽火車頭見證了機械時代的力量,黑亮的外表曾主宰了數十年的運輸大任,人往往失去後才懂得其珍貴之處,全台灣留下的蒸汽火車頭不多,每一個都是珍貴的文化資產。林家花園更是都市的亮點,當年劉銘傳興建台北城也才不過花了廿萬兩銀子,而林家花園竟花了五十萬兩打造,氣派講究由此可見一般。在解說老師的導覽解說下,過往歷史與園中種種設計用意有讓人恍然大悟之感,寓意深厚更讓人拍案叫絕;來到牛軋糖博物館不作牛軋糖,而是自己動手做最當紅的土鳳梨酥,據說牛軋糖的出現跟文昌帝君亦有關連,這裡陳列了與婚嫁舊俗相關的文物陳列,當真是嫁妝一牛車。而自古以來萬般皆下品,唯有讀書高的士大夫思想,使得求考試運的文昌帝君香火鼎盛,新莊的文昌祠雖是舊廟,但每逢考試季節就放滿了准考證,當果真是臨時抱佛腳,不過我想大部分求的是應試心情上的淡定吧!

快速變遷的社會要嗅出古早味不容易,唯有細嚼慢嚥,打開感官,才能真正體會那份古色與古香!


虯結的榕樹見證林家百年興衰 


林家花園氣派的見客大廳


以嫁娶為主軸的牛軋糖博物館












香噴噴的鳳梨酥出爐了



鳳梨酥是當紅的金磚












新莊文昌祠



文昌祠的剪黏藝術












廟不在大有仙則靈













土城頂埔國小裡的樹屋,是每個小朋友的夢想

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