2007/04/13

塔普倫寺佝僂老者



我在五年前第一次隻身來到柬埔寨吳哥窟,雖是初到,但很容易就在陌生的塔普倫寺認出這個熟悉身影。

那時的塔普倫寺遊客不多,盤踞在建築上的白胖樹根數量比遊客還多,特別令人震撼,不像現在情形反轉。而別看這位佝僂老者貌不驚人,他的身影每每都會出現在介紹吳哥窟的書籍及影片中,也曾經當過Lonely Planet的封面(忘記是第幾版的柬埔寨),只要來到這裡,就能看到他,像是每天不休息的值日生,不僅早已成為旅行者造訪此地時熟悉的對象,也成為塔普倫寺的另一個代表象徵。



他唯一且重複的動作,就是執著的拿著竹掃把不斷地在頹傾廢墟中跨走掃著,遇到他,大家都把腳抬起讓他完成工作。但地上的落葉早就已經被清除殆盡,於是揚起的只是一陣又一陣的黃沙,在穿過樹梢投射進來的陽光照耀下,灰塵有如煙霧般裊裊升起。不知道他是要掃盡這片蒙塵已久巨大皇城的謎霧,還是要加深歷史在這裡的厚度,就像老人口中喃喃的自語,沒有人聽得懂,也沒有人知道。

我從頭到尾始終不清楚他的名字。而當我在去年又重回吳哥,除了想再看遺跡是否依舊,也最希望在塔普倫寺的盤根錯節中尋找他,不過在迷宮般的塔普倫寺中穿梭來去,並沒有發現,我猜想,他可能也隨著時間,和這片埋在叢林裡的建築,一起成為歷史與記憶的一部份了。

大家都聽說吳哥窟要關閉的謠傳,但擔心的不是遺蹟保存是否完好,而是著急於自己是否來得及造訪。再看塔普倫寺,遺蹟的處境是日薄西山或是日出東方尚難定論,但看著川流不息的遊客潮,我不禁瞇著眼懷念起老人掃起的灰塵,而不是遊客走過後腳跟拋起的飛沙;懷念沙沙的單調刮地聲,而非遊人擾嚷的笑語聲。

12 迴響:

witch 提到...

好悲傷的感覺...如果找不到的話...

雅欣 提到...

在跟小馬去吳哥之前..我也詢問過幾個人
大家對塔普倫寺的印象除了蘿拉..另一個名人可能從老人換成了畫素描的人吧!!
說不定幾年後換我在唏噓素描畫家不見了..

chaoyi 提到...

你好..我是慧如的弟妹chaoyi
我跟kiffer預計6/17去吳哥窟自助
但遇到連假..
旅行社不願意單賣吳哥航空的機票
不知道方不方便請你幫忙問一下
不好意思..謝謝

木馬 提到...

chaoyi
不能跟旅行社訂啊
連假一定不會只單賣機票給你的
要打電話去航空公司訂
2504-6522轉20
不過我打去問過了
這時出發的已經需要候補了
試試看吧
或者要換時間

witch
這就是人生嘛
生老病死彷彿在吳哥窟特別有感觸

雅欣
素描畫家不見也許是因為他成名了

James 提到...

你好!偶然逛到你的站。我剛在週六(15)才從柬埔寨回台,看到這篇文章所提及的老者。讓我想起行程走到塔普崙寺時,也有看到這位每天的值日生,仍舊不斷的清掃(我也是讓開我踩著的地方)。
同時,在看完你所寫的文章,我感觸很多。

木馬 提到...

James
你最近去有看到這位老者嗎
我去了很多次都已經找不到他了呢

Peggy 提到...

你好~我17號剛從吳哥回來~
剛剛從聯合書報攤上的文章連結到你的網站
看到這篇文章上的照片中的老者
感覺好像是我在東梅蓬寺遇到那位老者
我不確定是在東梅蓬寺還是變身塔
因為我已經搞亂了
我的部落格相簿裡有照片
http://www.wretch.cc/album/album.php?id=apples5287&book=23
你可以看看是不是同一位~

吳哥真的很讚
日後有機會我想當採自助旅行
這樣才能更深入了解當地文化歷史
我喜歡當地人的純樸

木馬 提到...

Peggy
謝謝你來和我一起線索追追追
你說那位老人
應該是在東梅蓬寺拉像胡琴的樂器那位
那位不是我講的這位老者
吳哥除了古蹟可看
最讓人回憶的就是人了
相信你也有同感的

Peggy 提到...

木馬
能和大家一起分享旅遊心得很開心
回來台北這幾天
腦海裡還是在吳哥的種種
當地的人事物等
不斷地在我腦海出現
真的希望日後還有機會前往

匿名 提到...

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